been digging the man purse under coat thing for me lately (via On the Street…. At Somerset House, London « The Sartorialist)
fuzzy wuzzy - love the texture (via On the Street…….New Oxford St., London « The Sartorialist)
Open Source Design
- Based on a Collaborative approach, something that I feel is so of this generation and growing in this time. I’ll post a video that Miriam showed us of TED talk promoting this collaborative approach.
- It is based on sharing knowledge and dispersing ideas in an open way
Images - The Yohji Yamamoto open source pattern
In this class we learnt about open source design, a concept that I had heard of but never applied to fashion. It really excited me because I see the value in it. Essentially the idea is that designers make their patterns available on the internet so that people can download them and make the garment themselves or with the help of a local seamstress. Unlike mass produced garments that are made in large quantities, with orders put in for an estimated amount of sales but no guarantee people will buy it - open source clothing design is a sustainable practice because when someone wants the garment, they make it. There is no wasted garments!
And the person who downloads the pattern and makes the garment to fit will feel a much deeper connection to it because they have played a part in the construction. They might’ve chosen the material or sewn the pieces or even had it fitted to them. Psychologically they would be less like to readily expose what they have made and put hours into.
Open source design also paves way for improvements on the design, which could involve making the original pattern more sustainable in fabric usage (something that I find the Yohji pattern to not be).
So the Yohji Yamamoto design above uses a few metres of calico, something that I would want to change. We’re yet to sew the garment; Yamamoto said about the pattern that “it is hard to see what it is just looking at it.”
There was also a McQueen jacket and a SANS pattern to choose from but I liked the Yohji one better. Perhaps it’s my love of Japanese designers, the inherent simplicity to the pattern and the unusual shape of the pattern looks challenging but exciting. It is not constructed in a traditional way and this will open my way of thinking.
It was interesting to see the Yohji jacket on Jason and then on Ashleigh. We played with how you could wear the jacket. We realised it would work better one way on the male form and better on the petite female form the other.
1. the first way which we had always thought because of a picture we saw was to have a shawl like collar at the front. This way worked much better on Jason
2. Upside down, the jacket then had massive lapel-like flaps at the Centre Front. The fit Ashleigh much better.
The individual ways sat really well on each, but both ways showed a tightness in the elbow area and a beetle shell back which I wanted to reduce the size of. The sleeve length is longer on one seam to allow room to gather, but I don’t want to do this so I will shorten one end to make it even.
I’ll also bring the arm is to become tight at the forearm and wrist rather than flare out. Yamamoto suggests making this out of wool but I’m interested to try using vintage denim patched together. I’ll find large jeans at an op shop and see how that goes.
Good luck kween